In a quainter age, women's underclothes were often referred to as "unmentionables." They were buried beneath long skirts and numerous petticoats, and the merest peek at them (or peep about them) was considered an utter scandal.
These days, lingerie is not only very mentionable but is visible on everyone from rock stars to desperate housewives. And Super Bowl halftime shows aside, often the sight of a black bra strap or the edge of bustier is not accidental. In fact, fashion designers often create clothes that intentionally reveal a little lace or a glimpse of silk.
In a post-Madonna age, the point is not to shock--unless we're talking prices. Top-shelf lingerie may be airy and insubstantial, but it comes at a hefty cost. Agent Provocateur's Abracadabra lacy bra, panty, garter and bodysuit set will set a buyer back $670. C. Gilson, a European company that hand-embellishes its goods, sells a silk bra, panties, chemise and robe set for well over $2,600. And if you've spent a fortune on your underwear, you probably want more than a bedfellow to get a glimpse.
Americans are still getting used to buying lingerie the way European women do, says Geraldine Nuval, owner of the San Francisco lingerie boutique, My Boudoir.
"We think basic and not very pretty, whereas in Europe you look pretty from underneath to the outside," says Nuval, who hunts down unique designs for her shop. "So Americans don't spend as much money as Europeans do."
That's why the bulk of the intimate-apparel industry's revenue doesn't come from the sale of $100 garter belts, but from the simpler and cheaper items sold at mass-market stores, such as Wal-Mart Stores (nyse: WMT - news - people ) and Target (nyse: TGT - news - people ). According to NPD Group, a market research firm based in Port Washington, N.Y., the intimate-apparel industry grossed $9.6 billion in 2005, up 3.8% from $9.2 billion in 2004.
Catriona MacKechnie, a Scottish-born lace enthusiast who owns an eponymous lingerie boutique in New York City's Meatpacking District, feels that American women need to take a lesson from the Europeans and wear more beautiful underthings.
"We're trying to change the way American women wear lingerie," she says. "It's supposed to make you feel beautiful, even if no one knows you're wearing it."
The allure of better-than-basic lingerie is clearly stimulating sales. In 2005, The Limited's (nyse: LTD - news - people ) lingerie chain, Victoria's Secret, brought in $4.2 billion in sales--45% of the company's total. Warnaco (nasdaq: WRNC - news - people ) is one of the leading marketers of swimwear and bras in the world, yet despite its diverse portfolio of products, which includes Calvin Klein, Olga, Warner's, JLO Lingerie and many other labels, its intimate apparel lines only generated annual sales of $588 million in 2004.
Maybe that's because when well-heeled clients come to places like La Petite Coquette in New York City, they are not just looking for fine-quality garments but for a personalized experience.
"We've been changing things for 27 years," says La Petite Coquette owner Rebecca Apsan. "Our lingerie is for women who have taste and want to feel good. You can't feel good in lingerie that's scratchy or tight--it's in the way it's made that makes a piece good or not."
Shopping for intimates can be a touch intimidating for both sexes--not just for men who want to give a gift that keeps on giving. Fortunately, most boutiques offer registries that allow women to pick out and list the items they like, along with their measurements.
"Every person that comes in, we find out their size. Men don't have to worry, because we have the information saved in the computer," says Apsan.
For inspiration, skim through our list of some of the loveliest and most luxurious offerings available. Sure, the best of see-through silk doesn't come cheap--but sometimes, you have to pay a little something to get a little nothing.
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